The city divided, although not between Greek and Turk .  Varosha , the new town, with its painted hotels  bordering the sandy beach, is closed to all but the military. It has been so since 1974. Visitors must therefore concentrate on the walled city. They are adequately compensated in that it is one of the finest surviving examples of medieval military architecture in existence.

To pass through the massive walls is to pass through history, from the time of the lusignans, Genoese and Venetians to  the  bloody siege by the Turks in 1570-71. They stormed the walls and all Cyprus was theirs for over 300 years. The scene was set for the troubles of today.

In the narrow streets shops are unchanged by time or fashion. Dark interiors hide  a miscellany of goods. The town can be  a bustling place, of noise and activity , but more often it is calm, the residents going about their business in a relaxed manner. They may not be as outgoing  as their  Greek Cypriot countrymen in the south, but they are equally courteous and helpful.

There is much unexpected open space in all directions: a chaotic panorama of unkempt gardens and scrubland where palm trees shade ancient domed churches. Crumbling examples of splendid medieval buildings are all around. The battered minaret and  massive buttress of Lala Mustafa Pasa mosque from an impressive landmark for those who get lost.

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